AirScape Engineer's Blog » paul

Unique and Challenging Installs – introduction

paul — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 21:54:34 +0000

Did you find your install particularly challenging because of your attic configuration? Did you have a unique install that went beyond the traditional install method? Or are you just proud of your DIY project? If you answered yes to any of these questions we would love to see your installation photos. Hopefully, your unique or challenging install will help someone overcome an obstacle in their installation or just show them what’s possible beyond the norm. With that being said, we are starting an ongoing blog series on unique and/or challenging installs. This series is open to both home owners and installers.

So, if you feel that your installation could be helpful, please send your photos and answers to the questions below to: experts@airscapefans.com

What was the most challenging part of the installation?

On a scale of 1 to 5 how difficult would you rate this installation? (1 easy – 5 difficult)

What advice would you give to someone doing this installation?

How much of a “Do-it-yourselfer” are you? ( 1 what’s a hammer? – 5 fix everything myself)

SAF installation video

paul — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 23:48:36 +0000

Our newest installation video on installing a Solar Attic fan is now available for viewing on the website. Click the photo above to check out the video.

A special thanks to Green Meadows Building one of our Pro Installers in Ashland, OR

Sound Reduction part 4 – Ducted Models

paul — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:30:56 +0000

The final step on our journey of sound reduction brings us to ducted AirScape models. As you already know the ducted design of the 2.5 WHF, 2.5e WHF, 4.4e WHF, 4.5 WHF, and the Kohilo 2.8 allow for maximum airflow with a minimum of noise. Improper installation of these models can increase their sound levels. We touched on this subject earlier in the blog “4.5 Installation – Maximize Airflow, Minimize Noise.” There are a few things you need to consider when installing a ducted model.

90 DEGREE BEND - The 90 degree bend should be as smooth as possible to maintain the 20″ diameter of the ductwork. Kinking the ductwork will increase the sound level and reduce airflow because the air does not have a smooth path to the fan.

EXTENSION - It is important to extend the ductwork as far as possible away from the damper box. This needs to be done without distorting the 90 degree bend in the ductwork. Extending the ductwork fully moves the sound source (the fan) to the farthest point from the living space.

D-RINGS - The 2.5, 2.5e, and 4.4e fans have D-rings which are used to hang the fan from the attic rafters. Only 4 of the 8 D-rings are used in the installation. The unused D-rings should be taped down to avoid excess rattling.

PART 1 / PART 2 / PART 3 / PART 4

Sound Reduction part 3 – Raised Frame w/ Ductboard

paul — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 17:33:00 +0000

The next logical step for sound reduction is to combine the raised frame concept and add the duct board mentioned in part 1. In the following steps we’ll show you how to do this type of install.

STEP 1: First we created two frames with inside dimensions of 14.5″x22.5″ using 2×4′s.

STEP 2: Next we made a box using the two frames from step 1 and 3/8″ plywood. For this example we made our raised frame 17″ tall using (2) 25.5″ x 17″ and (2) 18.25″x17″ pieces of plywood. The vertical clearance of your attic will determine how tall of a box you can create. The picture shown is with one side removed.

STEP 3: Position the box over the framed opening and secure. Caulk all of the seams and gaps of the newly constructed raised frame. Attach the provided gasket to the upper frame of the box. Line the box between the 2×4 frames with duct board. In this example we used (2) 24″x10.75″ and (2) 16″x10.75″ sections of duct board. We decided to go with a friction fit, but adhesive or screws with flat washers would work as well.

STEP 4: Position the unit on top of the raised frame (1.7 shown). Secure using the provided screws. From the living space caulk all the gaps between the unit and the framing. You can now follow the remaining steps in the installation and operation manual to finish your install.

PART 1 / PART 2 / PART 3

New Rebates!

paul — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 19:36:35 +0000

We are excited to find that a few utility companies outside of California are now offering rebates for whole house fans. It’s nice to see some forward thinking by these companies. After all, energy savings can come from more than just replacing appliances or installing new windows.

Fort Collins Utility in Colorado is now offering a $250 rebate for the installation of a whole house fan

Pennsylvania is the first East Coast state with utilities offering rebates on whole house fans. PECO and Duquesne Light offer $90 and $130 rebates respectively

If you are a builder in Utah you can receive a $200 rebate on a WHF from Rocky Mountain Power when building a new energy efficient home

The table below lists all of the rebates that we are aware of for whole house fans and solar attic fans (your solar attic fan already qualifies for a 30% federal tax credit). Please refer to the utility rebate website for specific details on qualifications, $$$, and application forms.

STATE	UTILITY	WHF*	SAF*
CA	PG&E	$100
CA	LODI ELECTRIC UTILITY	$100	$40
CA	RIVERSIDE PUBLIC UTILITIES	$200
CA	SILICON VALLEY POWER	$200	$100
CA	GLENDALE WATER & POWER		$100-$125
CA	BURBANK WATER & POWER		$200
CA	ANAHEIM PUBLIC UTILITIES	$100	$30
CA	PASADENA WATER & POWER		$100
CA	SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA EDISON	$50
CA	SAN DIEGO GAS & ELECTRIC	$50
CA	REDDING ELECTRIC UTILITY	$150
CA	TURLOCK IRRIGATION DISTRICT WATER & POWER	$75
CA	SACRAMENTO MUNICIPAL UTILITY DISTRICT	$100
CA	MODESTO IRRIGATION DISTRICT WATER & POWER	$100	$50-$100
CO	FORT COLLINS UTILITIES	$250
PA	DUQUESNE LIGHT	$130
PA	PECO	$90
TX	GUADALUPE VALLEY ELECTRIC COOPERATIVE		$50
UT	ROCKY MOUNTAIN POWER	$200

*Please refer to utility for rebate details

Sound Reduction part 2 – Raised Frame

paul — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 23:55:45 +0000

You may consider a raised frame for your 1.0 or 1.7 WHF for additional sound reduction. The raised frame increases the distance between the fan and living space. Like our ducted models, making the fan slightly more remote from the living space will decrease the overall sound level. The height of the frame will depend on the total vertical clearance of your attic. The construction is very simple and will add a few additional steps to your installation.

STEP 1: We made a raised frame using some scrap 2×4′s. The inside dimension is 14.5”x22.5” matching the framed opening. Secure the raised frame to the attic floor.

STEP 2: Caulk all of the frame gaps and joints. Place the provided foam rubber gasket on top of the raised frame.

STEP 3: Secure the unit to the framing (1.7 WHF shown). From the living space caulk all gaps between the unit and the framing.

STEP 4: It’s not a bad idea to add some insulation around the raised frame. You can now follow the remaining steps in the installation and operation manual to finish your install.

PART 1 / PART 2

Sound Reduction part 1 – Duct Board

paul — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 19:02:56 +0000

Your AirScape is already the quietest whole house fan on the market, but there are a few install techniques to make it even quieter. We’ve decided to dedicate a few blog entries to some techniques that will help with sound reduction.

We’ll start with a simple installation step that works with all AirScape models. You can easily line the inside of the framed opening (between the unit and grille) with duct board. Duct board is a resin bonded fiberglass board that has acoustic and insulative properties. The fibrous mat surface of the duct board helps absorb sound and allows for the smooth passage of air. The fiberglass body of this material usually has an insulation value of R-4. The duct board can easily be installed in new or existing installations using either adhesive or screws and flat washers. In fact, we love this material so much we lined one wall of our new office with it (our lead engineer’s rants on energy efficiency, life, and politics are a little more muffled now).

Duct board resources:

http://www.specjm.com/products/ductboard/enviroaire.asp

http://www.owenscorningcommercial.com/data/products/product.aspx?id=271

http://www.certainteed.com/products/insulation/hvac-mechanical/317382

PART 1 / PART 2

Installation for attics with loose fill insulation

paul — Wed, 07 Jul 2010 21:11:37 +0000

We often get asked if AirScape whole house fans can be installed in attics with loose fill insulation. The answer is yes, with one additional install step. The idea is to stop the insulation from being displaced by the air movement generated by the AirScape. We now offer a breathable synthetic fabric that can be placed on top of the insulation to stop any displacement. The installation is as simple as laying the material down in the attic where the fan discharges and tacking or weighting it down. The final step would be to turn the AirScape on and adjust the fabric material as needed.

The Loose Fill Insulation Cover (LFIC) is available in 9′x10′ sheets and can be found on any of the product pages on the website.

4.4e/4.5 Install: Low Attic Clearance

paul — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 21:59:56 +0000

Often a WHF will not easily install in the traditional horizontal position. In some instances trusses or other obstructions will interfere with a normal installation. More often there is not enough clearance between the attic floor and the roof. One solution is to create a plenum box which the WHF will attach to. The plenum box can easily be constructed out of plywood and 2×4′s. The red line in the photos represents the plenum box constructed for an AirScape 4.4e installation. The flexible ductwork and fan can then be mounted straight off of the damper box (the ductwork may have to angle slightly upward so that the fan does not touch the attic floor). A 90 degree bend in the ductwork is not necessary for sound attenuation in this application.

Installation Notes:

- Line the inside of the box with a layer of sheetrock to maintain any required fire ratings

- Use a sound attenuating duct liner for maximum sound reduction

- Seal all framing joints with latex caulk to make the box air tight

- Insulate the outside of the box to minimize heat loss

- Support any sags in the ductwork with additional chain

Foam Recycle Program – 1 Year Anniversary

paul — Wed, 24 Feb 2010 19:22:01 +0000

The beginning of February marked the one year anniversary of our foam recycling program. In that time we reused or recycled 2412 cubic feet of foam. That’s two tons of waste saved from the landfill! According to wisegeek.com, 60 million tons of polyethylene foam is produced annually world wide. So we have saved .0000033% of the worlds foam polyethylene foam from entering the waste stream. When you look at our contribution as a percentage of the whole it’s just a drop in the bucket, but it’s a start. We know you’re thinking that it’s a small contribution, but let’s look at it in another way:

2412 cubic feet of foam is roughly equal to:

2,038,884 ping pong balls

110,616 Big Macs (our engineers favorite of course)

16,033 12-packs of beer (pairs well with the Big Macs)

9,614 basketballs

1 school bus